Natural colouration technology works well with wool textiles to produce a superior natural aesthetic quality and look. Wool absorbs natural dyes better than synthetic textile fibres.
Natural dyes are extracted from natural materials such as plants, minerals and even shells and insects. There are two types of natural dyes. Adjective dyes which require a mordant (dye fixative) and substantive dyes which exhaust and fix on the fibres without the use of a mordant.
Plant-based natural dyes include woad, indigo, saffron and madder. Invertebrate natural dyes include Tyrian purple, cochineal and crimson kermes. Other naturally occurring dyestuff alternatives include bacteria derived dyestuff and bi-product dyes (such as dyes from food waste).
염색 방식
천연 염색 기술
울, 면, 실크 같은 천연 섬유는 합성 섬유 섬유보다 천연염료를 더 잘 흡수합니다. 천연염료는 울과 잘 어울려 자연스러운 아름다움을 표현하는 데 뛰어나다는 것이 입증되었습니다.
천연염료가 간접 염료인 경우 염색공정이 시작되기 전에 원단을 매염료로 처리해야 합니다. 천연염료가 직접 염료인 경우 매염료가 없어도 섬유에 염색됩니다.
원단 착색 준비가 완료되면 사용하는 천연 염료, 원단과 원하는 착색에 따라 여러 종류의 착색 과정을 거칩니다.
Woolmark Natural Dye Partners
Tintoria di Quarenga
Tintoria di Quarenga has created a natural dyeing processes called NATURALE, that uses more than 200 natural ingredients to create a wide range of colours and shades suitable for dyeing wool and other natural fibres. The Italian dyehouse was the first natural dyer to gain Woolmark certification for this innovative process, which continues to gain industry support as designers, retailers and consumers look to more sustainable options.
Tintoria di Quaregna NATURALE is an innovative yarn collection dyed with 212 different plants, herbs, roots, flowers, and tree bark. Natural materials are sourced from around the world in a sustainable way and 65+% of the materials are from Italy,” explains Anna Mello Rella, co-owner, Head of R&D. “Colours range from delicate pastels to dark blue and black. No chemicals, additives, dye powders or extracts are used in dyeing.”
BioDye
Woolmark partner BioDye seeds a scientific breakthrough using the best of nature to create 100% natural dyes and biodegradable ingredients through eco-friendly processes. The wool yarn and fabrics are coloured with natural dyes using non-toxic mordants to give the whole spectrum of colours that do not fade or bleed when machine washed and BioDye’s natural-dyed wool fabric can offer enhanced UV-absorption.
Strengthening the eco-credentials of using BioDye’s natural colouration technology is the holistic process the dyehouse employs. Its Dye-yielding plants have been identified that can be used to re-vegetate degraded forests and provide income to rural women collecting chromogenic leaves in a sustainable manner. The solid waste is used as manure and the treated waste-water meets parameters for irrigation.
Woolmark partners using natural dye
Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham used Woolmark licensee Tintoria di Quaregna’s natural dyeing process for the luxury label’s latest knitwear collection.
Using flowers, leaves and berries, Victoria Beckham was able to achieve an earthy, warm colour palette without the use of chemical, whilst developing a collection with sustainability at its core.
블라인드니스, 펭첸왕, 리처드 말론
2020울마크 프라이즈 파이널리스트인 블라인드니스, 펭첸왕과 우승자인 리처드 말론은 울 컬렉션에 천연 염료를 사용했습니다. 블라인드니스는 자연 발효 과정을 통해 식물에서 인디고 염료를 추출해 울 직물과 실을 염색하는데 성공했습니다. 펭첸왕은 화학 염료를 대체할 지속 가능한 친환경 천연염료를 만들기 위해 지역 사회 장인들과 함께 다양한 식물과 허브차에서 천연염료를 추출하여 판매하고 남은 울을 직접 염색했습니다.
Working with a society of weavers in India, Richard Malone uses completely organic and plant-based dyes throughout his label. His International Woolmark Prize collection employs handwoven, traditional fabrics with organic and azo-free dyes, from protected farms that employ regenerative initiatives to sustain both jobs and the environment.
Extracts have been taken from the vembadam plant to produce a lilac colour, sky blue is achieved from the clitoria plant, marigold and myrobalan was used to complement the colour from the karungali plant and the wedlia plant produced luscious greens for the collection.